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Do-it-yourself installation instructions

Download here the installation instructions.
 

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Acclimatising

Once you receive your wooden floor you cannot start installation immediately; the floor needs to acclimatise. Leave your floor (unpacked!!!) to sit for at least a week in the same room as where it will be installed. The floor must be left horizontally and straight, away from the walls. Air humidity in the room where the floor is to be installed must be between 40% en 65%.

Subfloor preparation

When installing on a concrete floor, make sure the concrete is not too humid; the concrete may contain a maximum humidity percentage of 2% and with an anhydrite floor only 0,5%. Use a hygrometer to measure the humidity percentage or ask a professional to do this for you. Delete all unevenness from the subfloor and fill any holes you may find using a levelling compound. When dealing with a wooden subfloor, remove all nails and other unevenness and, if needed, fasten all springy subfloor parts. Lastly, remove all base and shoe boards.

We cannot be held responsible for any anomalies in the parquet due to bad preparation of the subfloor or less than ideal instalment circumstances. All materials must be dry, clean, plane and adequate.

Before installing

Inspect all the material for visible defects before installing the floor. No guarantee can be giving for any visual defects once the floor has been installed. The natural construction of the wood can differ in colour and structure between planks. Despite of our extensive quality check, some small deviances may be present (up to 0.5%). If there are any doubts about the production or finishing of the planks, contact us and do not install the floor.

Subfloor

Different types of subfloor exist, differing widely in their levelling capacities, moisture resistance and sound reduction. Subfloors can be roughly classified into rolled subfloors (such as foil) and plank subflooring.

Foil

Place the foil with the aluminium face up. Place the subfloor in the same direction as you will install your wooden floor.  Make sure the strips overlap well, preferably with a 20cm overlap between strips on both sides and seal the seams between the strips using aluminium tape. Leave a minimum of 2cm of foil up against all walls. We advise a Procell subfloor (Beige), or, if you want more comfort or are combining it with under floor heating, use Parketman PU-rubber subfloor or Procell silent subfloor (black).

Planks

The first thing you must keep in mind when using a plank subfloor is that the relative thickness of these planks will raise your floor somewhat. Install the plank subfloor in a running bond (or strecher bond), staggering the planks, and perpendicular to the direction of your parquet. Do not place the subfloor planks too close together, allow more or less 2mm between planks to correct for any expansion of the planks. Leave about 9mm between the subfloor planks and the walls.

 

INSTRUCTION FLOATING INSTALLATION

A floating floor is a floor which is not attached to anything and is placed “floating” on the subfloor; no glue or nails are used to install the parquet. To install a floating floor, place the first row of boards with the groove side facing the wall. Use the leftover piece of parquet (after sawing to fit the length) from the first row to start the second row. Make sure you have at least a 40cm stagger between the end of a board in one row and the beginning of a board in the adjacent row.

  • If possible, start on the longest side of the room.
  • Saw the first row of planks to fit the length of the room. Do not glue these.
  • Check if your first row is perfectly straight, as the direction of the first row will determine the rest of the floor.
  • Place spacers in between the floor and all the walls for the expansion gap. Keep 1,5 cm space between the floor and all the walls. Do this at all points where the floor touches a wall: walls, thresholds, doors and piping.
  • Apply a small amount of glue in the grooves of the planks. If you spill some glue on the top of the floor boards, remove immediately. Never use solvents on your floor!
  • For the second row, lock the groove onto the tongue of the first row.
  • Use a tapping block to ensure a tight fit. Do not tap the tongue or groove directly, as this may damage the planks, causing them not to fit anymore.
  • If necessary, use a pry bar to fit the planks together. This can be especially helpful in hard to reach spots such as the last plank in a row or the last row in a room.

There are two ways to install a floating floor:

  1. A floating floor can be installed using spacers all around the room on both the long and short side of the boards. Place the spacers 50cm apart.
  2. Another way to install a floating floor is to glue the short ends together and using spacers between the wall and floor every 50cm along the long side of the planks. We advise you use spacers measuring 14mm.

 

INSTRUCTION GLUED INSTALLATION

Most floors are installed floating. However, sometimes you may choose to glue your floor. A benefit of a glued floor is that is squeaks less, though a floating floor is better to reduce noise. Once a floor has been glued, you cannot move the floor.

Gluing your parquet is complex and should preferably be done by a professional. The instructions below are indicative; all spaces, floors and circumstances in which the parquet is installed are different. We strongly advise you to hire a specialist to place a glued floor.

 Installing the subfloor

Before you can place your floor glued, prepare a wooden subfloor. Make sure this subfloor is perfectly level.

If you have a cement subfloor, use chipboard boards measuring approx. 15 x 30 cm and 8mm or 12 mm thick.  If you have a wooden subfloor, use chipboard boards with the same thickness, but larger in size.

Distribute the chipboard throughout the room. Subsequently you rub in the chipboard using your trowel (B5), after which you lock the chipboard into the adhesive beads. A small seam between planks is no problem. Drying time of the glue is stated on the package of the glue.

After passing the indicated drying time, check if the chipboard is firmly stuck to the subfloor.  If the chipboard is glued properly, proceed to sanding the board and removing all dust. If the subfloor is dust free you can start placing your wooden floor.

Installing your wooden floor

Place the first row of planks with the groove side facing the wall Use the leftover piece of parquet (after sawing to fit the length) from the first row to start the second row. Make sure you have at least a 40cm stagger between the end of a board in one row and the beginning of a board in the adjacent row.

Saw the first row of planks to fit the length of the room. Do not glue these.

  • Check if your first row is perfectly straight, as the direction of the first row will determine the rest of the floor.
  • Mark reference lines on the subfloor. Only spread enough glue for the planks that can be laid before the glue dries. Apply the elastic glue to the subfloor using a notched trowel (B11) which should be held straight up to create a ribbed surface on the glue.
  • Place the engineered wooden planks firmly on the glue and apply some pressure. If you spill some glue on the top of the floor boards, remove immediately. Never use solvents on your floor!
  • Nail the planks to the subfloor, placing the nails under a 45 degree angle. It is preferable to use a nail gun or nail set to countersink the nails. This will make them invisible.  
  • Apply glue to the grooves and short end of the planks on all consecutive rows.
  • Slide the planks into place.
  • Use a tapping block to ensure a tight fit. Do not tap the tongue or groove directly, as this may damage the planks, causing them not to fit anymore.
  • If necessary, use a pry bar to fit the planks together. This can be especially helpful in hard to reach spots such as the last plank in a row or the last row in a room.

DIFFICULT SPOTS

Piping

Draw the outline of the pipes onto the floorboard and saw the plank in two on that exact spot. Drill the hole about 30mm bigger than the actual circumference of the pipe. Apply glue to both parts en lay them around the pipes.

Doorposts

To obtain a clean and professional appearance, undercut your door posts using a piece of plank and a hand saw. Place the piece of floor against the door post and use a pencil to mark the height of the cut on the door post. Undercut the door post on the previous made mark so your floor can be placed underneath it.

 

INSTALLING BASE SHOES

  • The base shoe is installed against the wall, not into the floor. Leave about a milimeter of space between the wooden floor and the base shoe. This way the wooden floor can move freely below the base shoe.
  • Measure the desired length of the base shoe and saw to fit is necessary.
  • Drill a 3mm hole into the base shoe every 30 cm.
  • Use a countersink drill to widen the holes; this will make the nails invisible.
  • Place the base shoe against the wall and mark the drilling holes.
  • Drill holes to fit 6mm plugs and place the plugs. Match the type of drill to the type of wall.
  • Screw the base shoe into the plugs in the wall.
  • Some base shoes can be glued to the wall using mounting glue. When drying, make sure to press the base shoe firmly against the wall.
  • Use putty to fill the screw holes.
  • You may use acryl glue between the base shoe and the wall. Plane this using a moist finger.

Going into inside corners

  • Install the first base shoe against the wall
  • Place the adjacent base shoe tightly against the first plinth.
  • Place a piece of plinth wood against the first plinth and mark the contours of this onto the second plinth.
  • Proceed to saw the second plinth on the marks.

Going into outside corners

  • The desirable length for your shoe base is that of the length of the wall plus the thickness of the shoe base itself: draw the desired length on the inside of the shoe base and cut with a 45 degree angle.
  • Fasten the shoe base (A) to the wall.
  • Place the adjacent shoe base (B) against the other wall.
  • Draw the outline of the wall onto the plinth B.
  • Saw shoe base B to match the 45 degree angle of part A.
  • Fasten the shoe base to the wall